Mother-of-Pearl & Sapphire Dress Set

Curator’s Note: “Ten small sapphires, each set in the middle of a disc of mother-of-pearl. The borders are engraved with ribbons and crossed ties. The cufflinks swing on little chain links, and the whole set sits in its original case from the Bedford jeweller John Bull & Co. It is a dress set made for evenings, and it still looks right for one.”

Story of the Period: In the 1930s, a gentleman’s evening dress needed a matching set: cufflinks, studs for the shirt front, and small buttons for the collar. Mother-of-pearl was chosen because it glows softly against black cloth, and a tiny sapphire in the centre gave each piece a quiet point of colour.

Details:

N: 017/26

Era: Art Deco, 1937 to 1938

Maker: Deakin & Francis, Birmingham

Material: 9ct gold backs (hallmarked Birmingham 1937 to 1938), with white metal borders

Gemstones: 10 small round sapphires, 8 at approx. 2mm (cufflinks and dress studs) and 2 at approx. 1.5mm (small shirt studs), set in mother-of-pearl. All are secure.

Contents: 1 pair of double-sided cufflinks (4 discs of 1.4cm), 4 dress studs (1.4cm), 2 small shirt studs (0.7cm) and 4 gold fastening hooks

Weight: 16.82g total

Condition: Very good.

Presentation: In the original fitted case from John Bull & Co, Bedford, The leather case lid is damaged at one corner.

Provenance: Sourced in the United Kingdom

Gemstones are described from our own examination. Not laboratory tested; stones may be treated.

Ships to Hungary and the EU.

Viewings by appointment in Budapest, Paris, London or online.