Diamond & Sapphire Cocktail Watch by Vertex

Curator’s Note: “A small, bold Vertex watch of the 1920s, in a signed case. The case is shaped like a barrel with the sides pinched in, and the bezel is covered with tiny old-cut diamonds in a beaded white-metal frame. At the top and the bottom, bars of blue sapphires break the white, and a little sapphire sits on the crown. The dial is silvered, with black numerals, and the watch runs. The back is signed and numbered, and the case sides are engraved with a fine scroll. It is on a new black leather strap, so it can be worn at once.”

Story of the Period: In the 1920s, the wristwatch became a jewel for women. Makers set the dial in a frame of diamonds, and used blue sapphires to draw clean, straight lines. Shapes turned from round to rectangles and barrels. Small watches like this were worn in the evening on a thin black strap, and took the place of a bracelet.

Details:

N: 024/26

Era: Art Deco, c. 1920s

Maker: Vertex

Signed: Case back stamped “BREVET 82109”, numbered 239609

Material: 18ct gold case (tested), bezel in white metal (not tested)

Gemstones: 44 old eight-cut diamonds, approx. 0.64ct total; 8 rectangular sapphires, approx. 0.16ct total; 1 cabochon gemstone in the crown

Dial: Silvered, with black numerals and an inner rectangular track

Case size: 2.4 x 2.1cm

Strap: Black leather, later replacement; gold-tone buckle. Total length 21cm

Weight: 12.77g with the strap

Movement: Manual wind; in working order

Condition: Good. Glass intact. Dial has age spots and a fine hairline. Light wear and scratches on the case back. Strap is in good order.

Provenance: Sourced in the United Kingdom

Gemstones are described from our own examination. Not laboratory tested; stones may be treated.

Ships to Hungary and the EU.

Viewings by appointment in Budapest, Paris, London or online.