Sapphire & Old-Cut Diamond Oval Cluster Ring

Curator’s Note: “A deep blue sapphire sits in the middle, ringed by ten old-cut diamonds. Each diamond is held in its own small claw setting, and the back of the cluster is open and pierced, so light passes through the stones. The shoulders are carved with scrolls. It is a classic cluster, small and neat, and it shows its age honestly: a tiny chip on the sapphire and gentle wear on the gold.”

Story of the Period: In the later Victorian years, the sapphire and diamond cluster was one of the most loved designs. The blue stone was often the centre, and a ring of white diamonds was set around it to make it look larger and brighter. The gold was 18ct, rich and warm, and the shoulders were often carved with scrolls. Open settings let light in from behind, so the stones looked clear and lively by candlelight.

Details:

N: 023/26

Era: Victorian, c. 1880 to 1900

Material: 18ct gold (tested; no hallmarks)

Gemstones: 1 oval sapphire, approx. 5 x 4mm, approx. 0.50ct (estimated). 10 old-cut diamonds, approx. 2mm each, approx. 0.40ct total (estimated).

Ring size: UK N / US 7 / EU 54

Weight: 3.2g

Condition: Good. The sapphire has a small chip at the edge. Light wear and scratches to the metal, and the claws are slightly worn. All stones are secure. The ring has been resized in the past, and the band is thinner at the back.

Provenance: Sourced in the United Kingdom

Gemstones are described from our own examination. Not laboratory tested; stones may be treated.

Ships to Hungary and the EU.

Viewings by appointment in Budapest, Paris, London or online.